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Showing posts with label Travel to Burma. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel to Burma. Show all posts

Thursday, January 3, 2013

Places to Go and Things to Do in the New Year


Where in the world will you go this year? If you are following trends, you will be getting off the beaten path in search of adventure and the exotic. Forget sun and sand. Be part of the avant-garde cognescenti.

The lure of forbidden lands is beckoning this year--even though it seems there are getting to be fewer and fewer of those places on the list. Before the fall of the Berlin Wall, Eastern Europe and the USSR were considered--if not verboten for travelers--then certainly alien. Prior to the mid-1980s, the same held for China. And then there have always been places that are the geographic equivalents of personae non gratae due to political reasons--including South Africa during apartheid, Burma until last year, and perhaps Iran even now.

In talking forbidden lands, I am not recommending war zones. Rather, I am talking about the axis of exotic--Burma (Myanmar), Cuba and North Korea.

Now that the government of Burma has finally chilled out, and long-time opposition leader and Nobel Peace Prize winner Aung San Suu Kyi is not only out from under house arrest, but sitting in the Houses of Parliament, more Americans are open to visiting the country. And Burma is reciprocating by opening the doors to what was formerly a country largely shut off from the rest of the world.

Visas are becoming easier to acquire--back in 1997, when I visited, it took months to get a visa and I could not list my occupation as journalist. At least 50 new hotels are being built to meet the demand, and more tour companies are adding Burma to their itineraries. Given the pent-up demand that built during the decades of dictatorship, tourism officials in Burma are expecting a doubling of tourist arrivals by 2016.

It's a hot spot, for sure, but it's still a place where you can still step back in time. No McDonald's, no KFC, spotty Wi-Fi, etc. So, if you visit in the next year or two, you will largely experience what I did 15 years ago, albeit with construction cranes replacing the large billboards broadcasting the People's Desires, as outlined by the former junta.


Burma is a land unspoiled by mass tourism. When I visited, I was struck by the beauty of the countryside and the gentle nature of the people. Still, back then, paranoia was rampant and getting the locals to talk was a challenge. But now, I imagine, tourists will find it a fascinating time to chat up a Burmese population experiencing elevated levels of freedom of speech for the first time in years.

You won’t necessarily find such freedom of speech in Cuba and North Korea, but those countries, too, are high on the interest list. Cuba, of course, has been open to the rest of the world forever, but it’s been restricted to Americans since 1961. And the fact is, Americans can travel legally to Cuba--it’s just that they will be breaking federal law if they spend money there.

Nonetheless, most Americans who want to go to Cuba can travel there freely, as long as they go under the auspices of a licensed tour company. For awhile last year, those licenses were lifted--one could blame presidential politics and the Florida vote--but they have been reinstated and so you can go without breaking any laws. North Korea is also legal, and if you go there, you will definitely have bragging rights as being among the few who have braved the Hermit Kingdom, a place where time stands still...or runs backward.


Sunday, November 18, 2012

9 Things to Know About Visiting Burma


The temples of Bagan

I traveled to Myanmar/Burma* in the 1990s, thus preceding President Obama by 15 years. But the country I experienced in 1997 is likely quite different from the one the President will be experiencing today.  Back then, a military dictatorship known as the SLORC (State Law and Order Restoration Council) was at the height of its power. The country was completely cut off from the West, and ubiquitous billboards  headlined "The People's Desire" warned citizens to:


--oppose those relying on external elements, acting as stooges, holding negative views 
--oppose those trying to jeopardize stability of the state and progress of the nation 
--oppose foreign nations interfering in internal affairs of the state and 
--crush all internal and external destructive elements as the common enemy.

Needless to say, journalists entering the country were well-advised to list another profession on their visa applications.

The only English news came in the form of "The New Light of Myanmar", a government propaganda rag highlighting the various accomplishments of the generals illegitimately in charge. Nobel Peace Prize Laureate Aung San Suu Kyi was in the midst of a long-term house arrest, punishment for her party's win in a 1990 national election. The locals were extremely paranoid, with reason, as the government encouraged spying on thy neighbor (shades of Communist Europe). Talking politics with the Burmese meant first gaining their trust and then finding a quiet corner where one was not likely to be overheard.

Despite the intrigue and the political turmoil (or maybe because of it), I found Myanmar/Burma to be one of the most fascinating and complex places I had ever been. The people were gentle, the roads to Mandalay and Yangon and Bagan were captivating, and the countryside felt like something out of a Zen painting, complete with monks clad in orange, walking in front of hazy, watery horizons.

Thanks to new government policies, most travel publications are naming Myanmar/Burma* as one of next year's hot destinations. If you decide to go, remember, this is a country that has been closed off  to modernity for some time. Khiri Travel, which specializes in Asia, offers some helpful tips for those considering a visit.

*For an explanation of what to call the country, click here.

These tips courtesy of Khiri Travel Myanmar, with minor edits courtesy of Daily Suitcase.

Get Your Visa and Book Accommodation Before Arrival 
Get your Myanmar visa before arrival in the country.  It takes (at least) two weeks advance application. Demand for Myanmar hotel rooms during high season (November to March) outstrips supply. Rooms are not cheap. If you don't pre-book, you'll end up paying over the odds for a mediocre room -- if you can find one.


Bring Cash 
There are no ATM cash points in Myanmar. Bring dollars -- preferably hundred dollar bills. But not old ones, as vendors won't accept notes that are torn, shabby, have a stamp on it, or a fold in the middle. They may not accept ones with "CB" in the serial number either.


Forget Your Mobile Phone 
There are no roaming mobile phone agreements with other countries. Daily Suitcase adds: So go old school and just enjoy your holiday. Instead of being distracted by incoming messages, or constantly fidgeting with your phone cam, look around you for a change.


Your Credit Card is Useless
 
Fewer than five places accept credit cards in Myanmar. It will take a while before credit card acceptance and ATM access is possible. Until then, avoid hassles by pre-paying for accommodation, tours and transfers before you go.

Behave Like a House Guest 
In Myanmar, there is no word for tourist, only for guest. So behave like a guest when visiting. Be polite, smile, and don't yell when things don't go according to plan. 

Shwe Dagon Pagoda, Yangon

Dress Appropriately 
When you visit places like Shwedagon Pagoda or Bagan, dress appropriately. You are, after all, entering places of Buddhist worship. 
 Modesty is key for both women and men.  Ladies, despite the heat, no plunging necklines or uncovered shoulders. Best to wear a long sarong and a lightweight shawl. 

Know a Few Words 
Mingalaba -- hello/greetings! (used any time of the day); nà-mǎleh-ba-bù - I don't understand; diha balao leh?-- how much is this? cè-zù tin-ba-deh -- thank you.Ta-ta -- goodbye!

Barter When Shopping 
The objective is not to relentlessly chase the cheapest price, but to secure a fair price. A bit of good-natured back and forth on the price of lacquerware, marionettes, or a longyi in a market is certainly acceptable, indeed expected -- but always with a smile. Both parties should finish the transaction happy and grateful.


Mohingar, Not McDonalds 
There are no McDonalds, Starbucks, or other international fast food or drink outlets in Myanmar (Daily Suitcase adds--for now). Go local. Support local vendors. Try mohingar (delicious thick fish soup often eaten for breakfast), ohne kyaukswe (coconut noodle soup), or leh pet thauk (pickled tea leaf salad).
Daily Suitcase Reading List: For a good historical perspective of post-colonial Burma, read Aung San Suu Kyi's Freedom from Fear. For a feel of Burma under British rule, read George Orwell's Burmese Days.